Sep 30, 2026 · 1 hr 2 min · 13 segments
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Paul HoughoughiGuestKaiHostAnibal VivancoHostSo I wanted to ask, is there anything in climbing training right now that you think is overhyped or misunderstood?

He's a chap who does a lot of tendon research, and he teamed up with a professional climber called Emil, and they looked at different loading approaches.

I've got the paper title here because, again, if people want to read about it, it's a good introduction to the way that people view the fingers.

The paper was 2024, and the title is Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers.

What they set out to do is compare lots of different approaches, including one where they were doing submaximal load frequently, so twice a day.

And they hypothesized that that is led to better strength gains in the hand.

And there's various YouTubes with Emil, the actual climber, showing the effects.

And if someone's climbing three or four times a week, and they're loading their fingers twice a day.

And there may be tissues around the loading of the fingers that don't want those fingers engaging.

So I'd say being obsessed with making your fingers work harder all the time isn't necessarily a good idea.

And we've got to protect climbers from just doing doing it blindly because it sounds like a good idea.

So if people have looked that paper up, read it with a critical eye, take some useful information about how tendons perform, and perhaps think about whether there's a good single approach to making those fingers work, because I don't think there is.
So I wanted to ask, is there anything in climbing training right now that you think is overhyped or misunderstood?

He's a chap who does a lot of tendon research, and he teamed up with a professional climber called Emil, and they looked at different loading approaches.

I've got the paper title here because, again, if people want to read about it, it's a good introduction to the way that people view the fingers.

The paper was 2024, and the title is Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers.

What they set out to do is compare lots of different approaches, including one where they were doing submaximal load frequently, so twice a day.

And they hypothesized that that is led to better strength gains in the hand.

And there's various YouTubes with Emil, the actual climber, showing the effects.

And if someone's climbing three or four times a week, and they're loading their fingers twice a day.

And there may be tissues around the loading of the fingers that don't want those fingers engaging.

So I'd say being obsessed with making your fingers work harder all the time isn't necessarily a good idea.

And we've got to protect climbers from just doing doing it blindly because it sounds like a good idea.

So if people have looked that paper up, read it with a critical eye, take some useful information about how tendons perform, and perhaps think about whether there's a good single approach to making those fingers work, because I don't think there is.
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