Drink of the Emperors

Five centuries ago, the last emperor of the Aztecs drank a full gallon each day of a coveted beverage, rich in vitamins and caffeine.  The Aztec word for it: xocolatl Chocolate. Just like today’s chocolate drinks, his was made from the ground seeds of the cacao fruit.  The Olmecs and Mayans before him domesticated the cacao, an understory tree from Ecuador. There and in Mexico, it thrived – under very specific conditions:  Steady warm temperatures. Abundant rainfall. Well drained volcanic soil, high in minerals. When the cacao tree blooms, its flowers must be pollinated within 48 hours, by ants or small flies. As few as 20% of pollinated flowers produce fruit.  And those fruits hold only a handful of seeds, which must be fermented to mellow their bitter taste before they’re fit for consumption. Mexican civilizations mixed their cacao with water, chilis, and spices. European invaders added sugar and milk to make chocolate bars. They took the cacao to their island colonies and to Africa, where growing conditions mimicked Mesoamerica. Today, rising heat, changing rainfall, deforestation, and overproduction jeopardize the global cacao trade. But choco-holics don’t despair. Scientists are working with cacao farmers to develop new hybrids and sustainable farming practices to keep this sweet treat with us for centuries to come.