Susan RoutledgeHost
Chris TaylorGuestRegenerative Skincare ExpertGuestTones of Beauty FounderGuestVanita RattanGuestSickness Management ExpertGuestSo I first did medicine and while I was at medical school, my parents had a cosmetics company.
And I decided after medical school that I was going to do an apprenticeship with their cosmetic formulator and learn how to become a formulator myself.
So if I use the classic chemical peel, that could lead to rebound pigmentation in my skin, even though it's meant to be treating the pigmentation.
Which ingredients do I need to put together in order to combat the melasma on my skin? I knew if I didn't get under control now, it would spread across my face and then it becomes very difficult to treat.
But you know, Susan, the really sad thing was when I started looking at the clinical studies of what retinol, for example, is suitable for skin of color, they didn't exist.
You actually don't know what percentage of retinol at the time that was suitable for skin of color.
And then what could you combine retinol with? So what I had to do was iterate.
I would have 10 patients at a time and I would start with a cream that was 0.001% retinol.
0.003%, and I would literally iterate until I found the ideal percentage of retinol, which for us was 0.3% and encapsulated.
Now what can I combine it with without it irritating the skin? And we actually had to get up to 10 tyrosinase inhibitors combined in order to tackle dark melasma in skin of color.
So can you imagine that took years of just research before I even made the first product.
So I first did medicine and while I was at medical school, my parents had a cosmetics company.
And I decided after medical school that I was going to do an apprenticeship with their cosmetic formulator and learn how to become a formulator myself.
So if I use the classic chemical peel, that could lead to rebound pigmentation in my skin, even though it's meant to be treating the pigmentation.
Which ingredients do I need to put together in order to combat the melasma on my skin? I knew if I didn't get under control now, it would spread across my face and then it becomes very difficult to treat.
But you know, Susan, the really sad thing was when I started looking at the clinical studies of what retinol, for example, is suitable for skin of color, they didn't exist.
You actually don't know what percentage of retinol at the time that was suitable for skin of color.
And then what could you combine retinol with? So what I had to do was iterate.
I would have 10 patients at a time and I would start with a cream that was 0.001% retinol.
0.003%, and I would literally iterate until I found the ideal percentage of retinol, which for us was 0.3% and encapsulated.
Now what can I combine it with without it irritating the skin? And we actually had to get up to 10 tyrosinase inhibitors combined in order to tackle dark melasma in skin of color.
So can you imagine that took years of just research before I even made the first product.
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