Jul 14, 2026 · 1 hr 7 min · 12 segments
Sizing a sewing pattern is rarely as simple as making everything bigger or smaller. In this episode, Malena unpacks what pattern grading actually involves, from choosing a base size to adjusting…
Uh, and yeah, no, th- this is not like, can we fill an entire episode about grading? It's like, no, no, uh, it, the, the- this could be, like, a podcast in itself-
[laughs] But first of all, before we get started, I guess it would be helpful at least to define what is grading because I think it's a technical term that is not familiar to the regular consumer, even though I know that most people listening to this podcast is familiar with it.
Yeah, no, so the, the usual working method, uh, for most, uh, clothing companies is that you make a pattern, um, in a base size.
Um, so you work in the base size, get the fit right, get the style right, and then you, when you are, like, done with the style, then you check also the grading so it looks good in all sizes.
And if you're not the base size, I mean, obviously you don't, can't really know what the base size is for each specific company.
Uh, but I think you kinda, you kinda c- sense, uh, if you are not the base size.
And unfortunately, usually the base size is, uh, I think the common, com- most common thing, uh, is, uh, i- in European size 38 or 36, so it's quite small.
... and then if you are a bigger size, uh, like quite a lot bigger size compared to that, you kinda notice that, yeah, it can, mm, something has happened in the grading.
Uh, and yeah, no, th- this is not like, can we fill an entire episode about grading? It's like, no, no, uh, it, the, the- this could be, like, a podcast in itself-
[laughs] But first of all, before we get started, I guess it would be helpful at least to define what is grading because I think it's a technical term that is not familiar to the regular consumer, even though I know that most people listening to this podcast is familiar with it.
Yeah, no, so the, the usual working method, uh, for most, uh, clothing companies is that you make a pattern, um, in a base size.
Um, so you work in the base size, get the fit right, get the style right, and then you, when you are, like, done with the style, then you check also the grading so it looks good in all sizes.
And if you're not the base size, I mean, obviously you don't, can't really know what the base size is for each specific company.
Uh, but I think you kinda, you kinda c- sense, uh, if you are not the base size.
And unfortunately, usually the base size is, uh, I think the common, com- most common thing, uh, is, uh, i- in European size 38 or 36, so it's quite small.
... and then if you are a bigger size, uh, like quite a lot bigger size compared to that, you kinda notice that, yeah, it can, mm, something has happened in the grading.
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