Oct 9, 2026 · 15 min · 10 segments
All I want is an ice cream cone. Nearly twenty years after scribbling “Desolation” into a notebook, I finally set out for one of Washington’s most legendary fire lookouts. It took me two attempts to…
And well, Desolation isn't particularly convenient.
There are several ways to reach it, but none of them are simple.
You can arrange a boat ride from the Ross Lake Resort, which is considerably more civilized, but then you still have to hike.
Or you can drive all the way into Canada, turn south, cross back into the United States at an unmanned border crossing, drive to Hozameen, launch some kayaks, and paddle nine miles down the lake to the trailhead, then do the steep four and a half mile climb to the summit.
Yep, I chose that [laughs] because why make the trip civilized? Approaching from Canada sure seemed like a fun adventure, and I suppose it was, though whether it was type two or type three fun could easily be debated.
And well, Desolation isn't particularly convenient.
There are several ways to reach it, but none of them are simple.
You can arrange a boat ride from the Ross Lake Resort, which is considerably more civilized, but then you still have to hike.
Or you can drive all the way into Canada, turn south, cross back into the United States at an unmanned border crossing, drive to Hozameen, launch some kayaks, and paddle nine miles down the lake to the trailhead, then do the steep four and a half mile climb to the summit.
Yep, I chose that [laughs] because why make the trip civilized? Approaching from Canada sure seemed like a fun adventure, and I suppose it was, though whether it was type two or type three fun could easily be debated.
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