Skip to main content
Nirmal Purja

Nirmal Purja

Mountaineer

Aug 27, 2026

3:48
And in the same way his confidence was clear, so too is his empathy, his compassion, and his grounding.
3:55
You know, my, me and my mother used to go in the forest to collect the woods.
3:58
We sell that in the, in the, in the brick factory and make some money.
4:03
You know, from that point to be in the Gurkhas, you know, where you are taught about honesty, integrity, loyalty, bravery.
4:12
You know, I grew up in the Gurkhas in the Special Forces.
4:14
From there, went into Special Forces.
4:16
I went to, to university.

6 MINS LATER

10:04
I asked him about the hardest thing he had ever done.
6:39
and i imagine without knowing this but i assume that these western climbers were either affluent enough to afford to do it themselves or had a community around them that funded them to do it you had to come in completely differently take these risks and you smashed the record like your analogy of 20 minutes against eight hours you know it's it's
6:59
compelling yeah and you know like i must say that it's it's good and people do see the success but the hardest part is giving up the a good possible future that's been literally you can literally take away for example so when i put my cheat in to to leave the sbs sas you know which is ta1 unit they invited me i went to harry potter in the headquarters and and the command level said okay names you know look you have no sponsorship which is a million pounds you don't have any secure pensions if you leave that you know if you leave pool and out of the military your wife will not get anything or your family will not get anything if you die on the mountain which is almost a lot of chances is there.
7:58
Look, we will give you three rank of promotion.
8:02
And I was never promoted in pool and it hurts me.
8:04
It's okay.
8:05
We will give you three rank of promotion.
8:07
Not only that, we'll send you to go and do this mountaineering course where you become pretty much a guide.

17 MINS LATER

25:21
married
20:14
So what was that like for a young Gurkha?
20:17
For me, you know, like everything like for me was, you know, for the reputations and, you know, and I will just tell you one story that I have briefly covered on the book.
20:28
For example, you know, we were working with the Marines, Royal Marines, you know, 40 commandos in Herrick 7 and one of my job as an engineer commander was to clear this compound so that um you know when we say clear this compound we means you know that the compound is free from ied bombs or any you know detonating device so i was doing that and obviously my one of my you know corporal was like and sergeant with names hurry up and i was like look i cannot hurry up you know and they were like names can you hurry up and i was like i just got so angry i was like You know, there is a valon.
21:09
Valon is a metal detector that detects IEDs or any bombs, any metal on the ground.
21:15
So I just threw that away and I was like, listen, if you think that I'm scared of doing this and if you think I'm doing it so slowly and methodologically because you think I'm scared, then there you go.
21:27
I can just walk around without this valon and all that.
21:30
But the reason why I'm doing this job 100% or methodologically is because If I miss something here and those like, you know, the Marine Infantry Unit comes in and if something detonates or if IED goes off, then, you know, we, you know, because of my carelessness or our team carelessness, the whole reputation of the Guard is going to get jeopardized.

29 MINS LATER

50:53
So what was the fundraising element like for you?
16:06
so
16:06
now i'll pause there i talked about my brother who paid him for my boarding school and everything he's like a father to me you know i i pretty much obey his words are like come on to me and he gave me a phone call and it's like names what the hell you are doing you know you have come every twice already you know you you know did so many good stuff you just took like 13 guys up there and and why why are you going up again i just didn't say anything guys i just hung up the phone okay only you know yourself okay people my brother and all they are of course family he'll support me but that was negative energy i throw that away and the decision was now purely me and i was thinking about you know can i really do it and i was like okay i'll give it a try because i've thought about it i thought i could do it you know so let's go for it and yeah mate and then i broke three world records one of the record it wasn't even planned guys so basically i wanted to submit everest and let's say in the same day you know and accidentally i broke the record by half you know so you know the previous record was 20 hours i did that in 10 hours and that was just by mistake um i'll post that there as well guys you know there's so many things happen while there you know my oxygen were stolen which i didn't know about it my oxygen were stolen which i knew about it all the oxygen that i left at camphor were brought down it was disaster okay there was huge dynamic so much problem there and if you're thinking of giving up and going back already and with all those you know um you know stuff happening at that point and with the oxygen being you know massively disorganized and getting stolen lost um and all you can think the whole the whole scenario but i went for it The next world record was, you know, trying to climb Everest, Lhotse and Makalu in two weeks.
18:00
And I knew that I had loads of time.
18:03
So when I climbed Everest and Lhotse in a day, I just got back down, you know, and I partied with my friends for two days because I felt like, well, I said I will do that in two weeks.
18:11
No need to rush.
18:12
Why do I need to prove anyone? So, yeah, chill out for two days and we went to Makalu.
18:18
So Makalu is the world's fifth highest mountain.

5 MINS LATER

23:44
What is it that you do to maintain that positive mindset? I
20:23
Um, where i've heard through like countless stories of what you've been involved in projects you've been involved in you bring this energy with you where it just feels like something else is possible and then you know project possible where it's you know these you make people believe and and you've got a way of flipping your own mindset and other people's mindset like how do you how do you do that with your mindset
20:44
look i think i'm going to tell you this we have got um Tenji, he's known as like IFMJ Tenji.
20:50
He used to climb with Uli's stake and all that.
20:52
He's really, he's probably the best guide in the world, number one, you know.
20:55
And, you know, of course, I travel from mountain to mountain, you know, guiding, and he was on Everest.
21:01
And when I come there, it's like, Namaste, my God, we missed you.
21:04
We missed the energy, you know.

16 MINS LATER

36:58
Can you tell us about that?

We value your privacy

We use cookies to understand how you use our platform and to improve your experience. Click “Accept All” to consent, or “Decline non-essential” to opt out of non-essential cookies. Read our Privacy Policy.