Dermaplaning Myths: Why Hair Doesn't Grow Back Thicker- And the Client Where It's Not a Myth

Send us Fan Mail Dermaplaning Myths: Why Hair Doesn't Grow Back Thicker — and the Client Where It's Not a Myth **"My mom says the hair grows back thicker."** Every esthetician who offers dermaplaning has heard it — and "that's a myth" has never once convinced anyone. This episode gives you something better than a denial. We start with the mechanism: hair thickness, color, and whether a follicle produces vellus or terminal hair are all determined inside the follicle, below the skin surface. A dermaplaning blade removes stratum corneum and the visible portion of vellus hair — it never reaches the follicle. Vellus-to-terminal conversion is hormonal, driven by androgens. That's why it happens at puberty. A blade is not an endocrine event. Then the evidence: the 1928 Trotter study and the 1970 Lynfield and MacWilliams study in the *Journal of Investigative Dermatology*, which found no significant difference in hair width, weight, or growth rate between shaved and unshaved skin. We cover the limitations of both honestly — small samples, all male, decades old — and explain why the conclusion still holds anyway. Then the part that matters most in the treatment room: **why the myth feels true.** Blunt tips versus tapered tips, the contrast effect after exceptionally smooth skin, attention bias, and hair that hasn't been lightened by sun yet. Four effects stacking at once. Your client isn't imagining it — she's accurately reporting a real sensation and drawing the wrong conclusion. And finally, the client for whom this isn't entirely a myth. Dermaplaning skews toward women in the exact age window where perimenopause, PCOS, and other androgen shifts can produce genuine terminal facial hair. If your answer is a brisk "that's a myth," you've dismissed her and missed a clinical signal. We cover how to redirect to a medical referral without ever stepping outside your scope. **In this episode:** - Why the myth is structurally impossible, not just unsupported - The 1928 and 1970 studies — methodology, findings, and honest limitations - Four perceptual effects that make regrowth feel thicker when it isn't - Paradoxical hypertrichosis after laser and IPL: the one place this concern is real, and why it doesn't transfer - The client whose hair genuinely changed — and how to refer without diagnosing - Word-for-word verbiage for the consultation, the skeptical returning client, and the referral conversation *Professional education for licensed estheticians, not medical advice. Follow your state board's scope of practice and refer clinical concerns to a physician.* **Resources & Links** **Real Skin Pro Treatment Room Companion App** Become a subscriber for instant access to skin analysis guides, treatment room resources, consultation tools, ingredient education, skin condition references, and continually updated professional education designed for licensed estheticians and esthetics students. 🔗 Subscribe here: https://www.realskinpro.com/app-landing-page **Website** Learn more about education, resources, workshops, coaching, and upcoming opportunities. 🔗 https://www.realskinpro.com 🎙 **Connect with Me** Instagram: @real\_skinpro  Private Facebook Group for Pros: https://www.facebook.com/groups/930389736385647 Email: lisa@realskinpro.com 📚 **Free Resources** Download free cheat sheets, educational tools, and other esthetics resources here: 🔗 https://www.realskinpro.com/app-landing-page ⭐ **Enjoying the podcast?** If this episode helped you become a more confident esthetician, I'd truly appreciate it if you would:  • Follow the podcast  • Leave a rating and review  • Share this episode with another esthetician or esthetics student Every share helps grow our professional community and allows me to continue creating free educational content for our industry. **Disclaimer:** This podcast is intended for educational purposes only and should not be considered medical advice. Information shared is designed to support professional learning and should always be used within your scope of practice and in accordance with local laws and regulations. Real Skin Pro Education is dedicated to helping estheticians think differently, treat skin intentionally, and create real, lasting results. Follow along for more advanced skin education and insights. Instagram: @real\_skinpro