Sep 15, 2026 · 12 min · 8 segments
Dermaplaning is one of the most popular treatments in the esthetics treatment room, but is it appropriate for every client? In this episode of the Real Skin Pro Podcast, Lisa breaks down dermaplaning…
Lisa WatersHost
Instead, I wanna talk about how we actually make the decision to dermaplane someone in the treatment room because dermaplaning is a tool and it's a skill, and just like every other tool and skill we have as aestheticians, it isn't appropriate for every skin, every concern, or every appointment.

So what are we actually doing when we dermaplane? Most clients think dermaplaning is basically shaving the face.

They'll come in and they'll say, "I want the face shave." I'm like, "Okay." Um, but we are, you know, we are removing vellus hair, but that's only part of what's happening.

As we move a blade across the skin, we're removing superficial corneocytes from the stratum corneum, the top layer of the skin, and along with that, vellus hair.

So I always explain that vellus hair removal is an additional benefit besides the exfoliation part for dermaplaning.

Makeup tends to sit better on the skin, and you can get that immediately, that immediate bright, polished appearance.

But I think sometimes we become so focused on the result that we forget to ask what we had to remove to get there, to get to that point of that, that glow, quote, unquote.

Because those corneocytes aren't just useless dead skin sitting on the surface waiting for us to get rid of them, right? It is an actual part of our skin barrier.

Everybody says that the corneocytes, the stratum corneum is dead, but it is very much a functioning part of our skin system, and that's what's gonna bring me to something I tend to talk about all the time, which is the barrier-first approach and sometimes, uh, corneotherapeutic practices.

Instead, I wanna talk about how we actually make the decision to dermaplane someone in the treatment room because dermaplaning is a tool and it's a skill, and just like every other tool and skill we have as aestheticians, it isn't appropriate for every skin, every concern, or every appointment.

So what are we actually doing when we dermaplane? Most clients think dermaplaning is basically shaving the face.

They'll come in and they'll say, "I want the face shave." I'm like, "Okay." Um, but we are, you know, we are removing vellus hair, but that's only part of what's happening.

As we move a blade across the skin, we're removing superficial corneocytes from the stratum corneum, the top layer of the skin, and along with that, vellus hair.

So I always explain that vellus hair removal is an additional benefit besides the exfoliation part for dermaplaning.

Makeup tends to sit better on the skin, and you can get that immediately, that immediate bright, polished appearance.

But I think sometimes we become so focused on the result that we forget to ask what we had to remove to get there, to get to that point of that, that glow, quote, unquote.

Because those corneocytes aren't just useless dead skin sitting on the surface waiting for us to get rid of them, right? It is an actual part of our skin barrier.

Everybody says that the corneocytes, the stratum corneum is dead, but it is very much a functioning part of our skin system, and that's what's gonna bring me to something I tend to talk about all the time, which is the barrier-first approach and sometimes, uh, corneotherapeutic practices.
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