Just Keep Running with Evan Blakeney
Jun 12, 2026 · 25 min · 11 segments
Zone 2 training is low-intensity, aerobic-base running — but the hardest part isn't the science, it's one simple question: how do you actually know when you're in Zone 2? Most runners rely on the…
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Evan BlakeneyHost
What is zone 2 exactly? How do I actually know if I'm in it? Most watches, whether it be a Garmin, an Apple Watch, a Coros, a Samsung, whatever you use, they all use what's called a 5-zone model, where zone 1 is the easiest, zone 5 is an all-out sprint, and zone 2 is on the easier end of the running spectrum, roughly 60-70% of your max heart rate.

That calculation starts with your maximum heart rate, and your watch almost certainly doesn't know what your actual maximum heart rate is.

Most watches use a formula called 220 minus your age to estimate your maximum heart rate.

So if you're 35 years old, your watch takes 220, it subtracts your age of 35, and assumes that your max heart rate is 185 beats per minute.

The problem is that that formula has a standard error of plus or minus 12 beats per minute, which means your watch could be off by 12 beats per minute in either direction.

And here's the thing, every single zone on your watch is calculated off of that one number.

So if your estimated max heart rate is wrong, your zone two range is wrong, your zone three range is wrong, all of it is wrong.

But I am saying that you shouldn't treat those numbers like they're the gospel because they're built on an estimate.

And as we'll get into in a few minutes, there's actually a much more reliable way to know if you're in zone two.

So not only is your watch working off of an estimate, but even if it wasn't, you still couldn't compare your heart rate numbers to anyone else's.

What is zone 2 exactly? How do I actually know if I'm in it? Most watches, whether it be a Garmin, an Apple Watch, a Coros, a Samsung, whatever you use, they all use what's called a 5-zone model, where zone 1 is the easiest, zone 5 is an all-out sprint, and zone 2 is on the easier end of the running spectrum, roughly 60-70% of your max heart rate.

That calculation starts with your maximum heart rate, and your watch almost certainly doesn't know what your actual maximum heart rate is.

Most watches use a formula called 220 minus your age to estimate your maximum heart rate.

So if you're 35 years old, your watch takes 220, it subtracts your age of 35, and assumes that your max heart rate is 185 beats per minute.

The problem is that that formula has a standard error of plus or minus 12 beats per minute, which means your watch could be off by 12 beats per minute in either direction.

And here's the thing, every single zone on your watch is calculated off of that one number.

So if your estimated max heart rate is wrong, your zone two range is wrong, your zone three range is wrong, all of it is wrong.

But I am saying that you shouldn't treat those numbers like they're the gospel because they're built on an estimate.

And as we'll get into in a few minutes, there's actually a much more reliable way to know if you're in zone two.

So not only is your watch working off of an estimate, but even if it wasn't, you still couldn't compare your heart rate numbers to anyone else's.
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