Steve House

Mm-hmm.

When Steve House and Scott Backes and I went to House Peak and put up M16 in 1999- I have pictures of us sorting out the piton selection, and we're taking, I don't know, six or nine pitons, and the, the majority of which are knife blades.

Mm.

And without the knife blade piton in the Rockies with the sedimentary limestone, I wouldn't want to go up there without knife blade pitons.

I love that.

Yeah, I'm not a father myself, but I have so many friends that have started their families, kind of like, it sounds like the age that you did, and it's cool to see them as parents and how it changes them and how everyone evolves.

And I just wanna say we're lucky to have you and someone like Steve House, I think you guys are friends, just as guiding lights, 'cause I hear Steve talk about being a father, and he's talked about his issues with climbing and trauma he's experienced and how he has changed his climbing, but he's still as involved in the climbing community.

So just wanna thank you and people like Steve and Mark Dwight that we have you as guiding lights, 'cause I don't know, you, you mentioned, was it Fritz?

Peak 10- 10,004.

It's Steve House's favorite-

Oh, okay

... uh, the 50 favorites.

Hey, welcome to the Uphill Athlete Podcast.

I'm your host today, Steve House, and we are going to talk about how endurance athletes are comfortable with pain.

Maybe this is you.

We all know the difference between discomfort and danger, but in the case of head injury, it's something different.

up?

Which ended up, you know, for me, the final big revenge was the Slovak direct on Denali with Steve House and Scott Backes.

And we thought we could do it in 48 hours, but it took 60.

And, you know, it's a route, you know, where it was 11 days for the first ascent and a thousand feet of fixed rope.

Yeah.

And what are the three lines? And Blair has suggested one.

And then in conversation with Steve House the other day, I realized like, oh, there's another here.

And now I have two things that have been fairly consistent.

Oh, I'm gonna, you know, I know my crisis nutrition meal plan that I can get away with one four ounce canister of fuel, you know, that kind of thing.

But the thing I learned from guys like Dwight and Steve House and those guys is that those crazy, you know, defining, life-defining climbs they did, you know, 60-some hours on the Slovak.

You know, they did, you know, Steve did the Rupel face and, you know, whatever, him and Vince in like three days or whatever.

Like they knew that they were cutting the margin of safety back to the ragged, ragged edge.