Shane Dorian

So I guess I don't want to give too much away, but basically one sort of storyline that started coming up a lot when we were talking to all these people.

We talked to Greg Long and Nathan Fletcher and Shane Dorian and Cole Christensen and Paige Alms and all these surfers.

And they all sort of talked about how in the early 2000s there was a real turning point with it going from basically just whipping into whatever you could with a jet ski and countless people doing that, way too many people doing that, to then a handful of these guys and girls were kind of like, no, we want to paddle and we believe we can paddle at Jaws and Mavericks when it gets to that 50, 60 foot range.

And so they started pushing that and kind of just paddling on toe days and sort of revolutionized the sport in the mid to late 2000s.

And they've made a film basically...

Pretty much contextualizing how gnarly Toy Meister really is.

They've got quotes from Shane Dorian, Jamie O'Brien, Kelly Slater.

Like voiceovers.

Weird headspace, though.

I think that, you know, we can take a leaf out of the book of Josh Kerr and Shane Dorian and Duck Goat and surf within ourselves and still get thoroughly coned.

Have a good time.

You know, today I did one of the best turns of my life, a little click turn, a whizzing along, a little fucking waist high wave, and I'm living off the fumes of that for fucking...

No more, no more fucking jet skis.

We're paddling this shit.

And it was a crew that included Ian Walsh, Cole Christensen, Shane Dorian, Greg Long, Nate Fletcher, Si Malosky, Mark Healy, Twiggy Ramon, and a bunch of others.

And it might just have been the greatest movement in surfing history, looking back on it.

Thank you.

The untold story of Shane Dorian's first paddle wave at Jaws, also known as Patagonia's film that we produced with them, Inflation Point.

Made by our good friend Holden, whose last name I still cannot pronounce, and Nate Cox.

This thing kind of tells the story of big wave surfing from the point of the introduction of the jet ski.

He's the GOAT of our sport, greatest of all time.

And then Shane Dorian is a legendary big wave surfer.

He's incredible as well.

And so it was my first time to Fiji.

I don't know what you are, but God bless you.

[laughs] Um, Sam McIntosh also did that really good interview with Shane Dorian, where Shane talks about getting older and the waves he wants to and doesn't want to surf.

Um, so that's involved in here too.

And then on the younger side, there's a lot of things happening.

All time.

Tell us, when did you meet Shane Dorian? How did that relationship come about? Because it seemed like you guys were a two-pack.

When anyone referred to either of you, the other was mentioned at the same time.

Shane started competing on Oahu when he was pretty young because he's from the Big Island.

I think Machado had a real kind of surf family and a few of our friends in our group.

But a lot of us didn't.

Shane Dorian didn't come from a surfing family.

I certainly didn't.

We got that pretty good.

We got that, uh, slabby right that, um, Dan Malloy and Shane Dorian surfing, uh, Sipping Jet Streams.

Mm.

We got that really good with no one out.