Sant'Erasmo

I've heard the queues can be long, so I'll book my ticket online tonight, and I'll go early.

And then I wanna get out into the lagoon to Murano and Burano and maybe Torcello and definitely Sant'Erasmo, the farm island, which I'm told is the green lung of the lagoon, where they grow the artichokes.

I wanna see the city beyond the tourist core, the parts where people actually live, and the parts where they used to.

I wanna understand how it works, the tides, the vaporetti, the whole machine.