Registan

What actually happens to the city's attractions when that weather shifts?

Well, the most glaring disappearance is the Registan show.

Right.

The Registan is the central square with those three massive madrasas.

It's the focal point of the whole region.

And every night during the high season, they project this incredible sound and light show onto those facades.

They are cash only, though.

Right.

It's impressive.

Registan Square is one of the most impressive urban architectures I've seen in my life.

So I have to say it is worth seeing.

It's definitely worth seeing as much tour- as touristic as it is.

So Samarkand, once again, recommended.

You can't really skip it.

Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful architecture in Registan Square.

Be aware, a lot of tourists.

Oh, and I went to Tashkent as well, and they're absolutely brilliant.

So Samarkand's got the, um, Registan complex.

They're kind of the famous Silk Road, um, kind of old beautiful buildings with the tiles and that sort of Persian look.

And it was, uh...

The place was strange in a David Lynchian kind of way, dreamlike and disquieting.

After seeing the Registan and the Gour-el-Emir, the patina and age and soulful wear on their ceramic tiles.

It felt absurd to walk among the shiny and lifeless recreations of the same.

Who would want to come here, I wondered, but the waitress at the cavernous and entirely empty restaurant, the passing staff looked almost concerned to see me, told me the eternal city is full of tourists during the warmer months.