Engine control unit

So we don't see dangling wires off the side of them as you might when you rip your engine out of your car at home.

So it's a lot of almost aerospace level connectors on the electrical ECUs, things like that.

So you pluck the engine out of the car, put it on its little cart.

We'll roll it across to the dyno.

That's it.

And that is in the stop start ECU.

And I'll explain what the stop start ECU does.

But if you look into this code, it basically just says the engine didn't start.

Now, in the ECM, there are no relevant codes.

Like I said, there was a code that basically said, hey, there's a code in the stop start ECU, but nothing relevant as to why the engine did not start.

Okay.

So at this point, I need to do a little bit of research on the system.

As soon as the ignition is on, the brake pedal is not pressed.

Seven to six volts are present on the wire from the brake switch to the brake lights, ECU, and ABS module.

Through this, the ECU might detect a depressed brake pedal, so the engine cuts gas.

Then I checked the GND resistance from the ECU to battery.

A lot of letters here.

And the ABS module to battery.

Then I took the cable out of the plug, checked the voltage of the corresponding pin against the battery minus.

Wow.

And what controls that typically on a basic EFI?

I use a micro squirt ECU.

Okay.

So.

Yeah.

I load a base map into everyone I ship out.

And so I load the base map into it and then I take it out to my car and And I unplug my ECU, plug in the one I'm about to send out and start the car and make sure that the base map I wrote took correctly just for a peace of mind, you know? And it fires right up every time and has the high cold start idle and it comes down and I blip the throttle and it revs really smooth and I package it up and label it has a base map for a stock 1600 and it's ready to go it

would be interesting to see a side by side of like a stock engine with one of these on there and then you switch it and on the stock engine you have video of how quickly it accelerates because i would assume that would make a big difference in how quickly it accelerates because if it's timing the fuel just right you're not you're not running it too fat and it's not revving slow trying to burn.

And that's the key.

As long as you're not changing the exhaust components, the ECU is meant to adapt to different displacements.

That same ECU is used anywhere from 2.7 to 3.8 liters.

And so it's not an issue to move it up to 4.1 liters.

And since we're up in the compression ratio and getting a little better mileage, if anything, why don't we get a little better emissions from that? Or is that me kind of talking above my pay grade?

So we solved the issue mechanically with our spring package and have seen really good results there.

Haven't seen any degradation of reliability.

However, the ECUs have been fighting us a little bit and we're still kind of work, you know, on some it's not an issue, on others it is.