Bruce Irons

Tommy Sobrey, one of my favourite surfers from this archipelago in blue, the Bingo Battler.

In white, Bruce Irons.

Wow.

2009 champ.

I got this 7.0 from a guy from Fiji.

And, yeah, it's like a Bruce from JS.

It's a Bruce Irons model.

And it's like an old classic board.

That's not packing a barrel.

It's Bruce Irons at the YMA shore break in the Bruce movie.

That is packing a barrel.

Yeah, or packing clothes.

He's definitely like, they're both definitely my heroes.

And then, I mean, I've been obsessed with Bruce irons pretty much like my whole life.

So he's, I don't know, just his surfing and, and, uh, what he can do on a surfboard and how he approaches different, um, waves is, is incredible.

It's been incredible to watch, uh, my whole career and then, I don't know, man, just my friends like the Gdalskas brothers as well.

But anything else, it's like I saw a video recently of somebody interviewing.

Like, I feel like it was like Bruce Irons and Nathan Fletcher and like the kind of the the poster men of core.

And the answers were pretty much unanimously.

You do it because you love it.